We knew the hike from Manarola to Corniglia via Volastra would involve plenty of climbing. We had watched the videos, read the reviews and even built up our endurance before the trip. It still surprised us how often we had to stop to catch our breath.
Those stops turned out to be one of the best parts of the morning.
We had arrived in Manarola the day before and spent a little time getting familiar with the town. For day two, my wife, our nephew and I planned an early hike to Corniglia. My wife and I both brought our cameras for photos and video. And boy, are we glad we did.
We packed water and snacks because we would be missing breakfast. The plan was to walk to Corniglia, sit down for a late breakfast, then buy our Cinque Terre cards for the rest of the day’s trails and train rides. We also had an evening visit to the Via dell’Amore, or Lovers’ Lane, planned between Riomaggiore and Manarola.
A quiet start, followed by burning legs
We set off around 7:30 to 8 a.m. I was surprised by how quiet Manarola was. As we started up the trail, the views back toward town had us stopping every few minutes to take photos.
Then the strenuous uphill part came. Our legs were burning, and we were stopping often to catch our breath. My wife and I were both in our early 50s and in good shape, but we felt it. Our nephew was out of breath too.
Luckily, the views when we stopped were outstanding. We had the trail to ourselves, which was especially nice on the narrow sections where only one person could pass at a time.
Morning light in the vineyards
The trail began winding through vineyards, and the morning light shining through the leaves was simply magical. We passed hand-built stone walls and eventually reached Volastra.
As we walked past the homes, I couldn’t help wondering what it would be like to live there. To wake up each morning with that open view of the Mediterranean, with Manarola in one direction and Corniglia in the other.
After a short break in Volastra, we continued toward Corniglia, passing small farms growing vegetables. Then we came across a little wine-tasting hut in another vineyard, accessible right from the trail.
It wasn’t open when we passed, which I put down to our early start. I hadn’t expected to find a place where we could stop for local wine and take in the views. It immediately gave me something to look forward to on a return trip.
Finally, downhill to Corniglia
After all that climbing, I remember wondering when the trail would finally start going downhill. Corniglia was lower down toward the sea, so surely we had to start descending at some point.
Eventually we did, and not long afterward we entered town.
We refilled our water canteens at the trailhead fountain, then found somewhere to sit down for a late breakfast. I had a croissant and a cappuccino. While we had cell service and a little time, we bought our Cinque Terre cards on our phones.
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The rest of the day didn’t go quite as planned
Next, we intended to hike from Corniglia to Vernazza, continue from Vernazza to Monterosso, then take the train back to Manarola.
Well, that didn’t happen.
We made it to Vernazza, but by then we were exhausted. We had underestimated how much the first hike would take out of us. We skipped the walk to Monterosso and took the train back to Manarola for a late lunch or early dinner and some rest.
We still had our scheduled Via dell’Amore walk that evening, just after sunset. We took the train to Riomaggiore and walked around for a while, since it was our first visit there. We found a great gelato shop and couldn’t resist.
My wife and I had read about the Via dell’Amore’s long closure after a landslide and its rebuilding, so we were excited to see it. I was impressed by the work they had done. The lights along the path gave it a romantic mood, and we were glad we had gone just after sunset.
Why I’d do this hike again
At the end of the day, we were all ready for a well-deserved night’s rest. We hadn’t walked every trail we planned, but it still felt like we had accomplished a lot.
When we arrived in Corniglia, it seemed like more people were starting toward Manarola than coming our way. Maybe that was because they were starting later. It was just something we noticed, not a reason to assume the reverse direction would be easier.
My wife and I enjoy a good hike. This one was more challenging than we were used to, but the stops it forced us to take gave us time to take in the views and capture photos and video. I think we enjoyed the experience more because of them.
Even after five full nights in Cinque Terre, there were still things we wanted to do. We’re already planning another trip, and I’m looking forward to hiking this trail again.
This time, I’d like to stop at that wine-tasting hut and try a few glasses of local wine. We shared more of our time in Cinque Terre and the rest of Italy in our Italy trip recap.
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A few things to check before your own hike from Manarola to Corniglia via Volastra
Our experience is from our trip, not a promise about today’s conditions. Before setting out, check the Park’s current trail information and weather guidance.
Its hiking handbook says to choose a route that suits your physical condition and skills, stay on marked paths and wear closed, waterproof, ankle-covering shoes with anti-slip soles. Walking the trails in adverse weather is prohibited.
Not every Cinque Terre trail needs a paid card. The Park’s published 2025 Manarola–Volastra–Corniglia itinerary says a card was not required for that hike. Check the exact route you intend to walk rather than assuming every village-to-village trail is paid.
Choose your card for the services you need, and check train coverage separately from hiking access. For the Via dell’Amore, confirm that your ticket includes entry and arrange the required reservation.
The Park says cards without that access require an additional fee. Opening hours and ticket arrangements can change, so don’t use our after-sunset visit as a current timetable.
Bring water and snacks, leave time for breaks, and keep the rest of the day flexible. If you want a wine stop, confirm the business and its hours before making it part of your plan.
Practical details checked against the National Park’s hiking handbook, 2025 Volastra itinerary, Train Card information, Via dell’Amore access guidance. Check those sources again before your trip.